Metro 2008 – ‘Small Bistro’s A Big Hit’ (4 Stars)

Where Simply Simpsons had slightly clinical, minimalist decor, Petit Gourmand seems more like a French bistro crossed with somebody's front room. So pictures of Parisian Metro stations now adorn the walls where the full-length mirrors used to be, the colour scheme has darkened into softer reds and greys, and there are occasional homely touches, such as a chest of drawers.

 

My partner's pear, walnut and blue cheese salad (£5.50 starter, £9.50 main) was everything a salad should be, standing tall due to the simple freshness of the ingredients, with the sweet slices of pear nestling among crisp rocket and red chard leaves, and the chunks of blue cheese adding almost as much of a nutty texture as the walnuts.

 

My partner's braised blade of Scotch beef bourguignonne with creamy mashed potato (£13.95) turned out to be one of the best meals either she or I had ever had. The meat was so tasty and tender that it melted into sensational flavours in the mouth and the potato was nigh-on perfect, with the green vegetables beneath it providing a satisfying crunch.

Feeling on something of a roll by this point, we overruled the complaints from our bursting stomachs and ordered desserts. This turned out to be a wise move, as my partner's hot chocolate moulleux with crème Chantilly (£5.50) was a gooey delight. My Knickerbocker Glory (£4.95) was admittedly chosen as something of a retro indulgence, but it wasn't the piles of sickly sweet ice cream you remember from childhood: it contained whole strawberries, cherries and raspberries beneath the ice cream, making it much more suitable for mature tastes.

Simply Simpsons may have been a particularly daunting venue to replace, but Petit Gourmand has risen to the challenge and developed its own identity. This night's performance was close to flawless.

For full review please click here

 

---

 

Birmingham Post 2008 – ‘Vive La Différence With Kenilworth French Revolution’

 

This place has had a fair injection of all things French. There were dashes of Italian and more than a sprinkling of English food on offer but the quality was on a par with the standards that the French are famous for.

The duck rillettes with a spicy plum chutney (£5.95) was a textured delight. A lovely round shape medallion of tender duck meat with a layer of the chutney stuff on top. Sort of like a game cheesecake, which worked wonders as a starter. I was more than distracted by my own Petit Gourmand fishcakes and tartare sauce (£6.50). The trio of cakes were delivered to the table well heated through, which is a rarity for fishcakes, even at top end restaurants. A trick that other chefs could do with learning.

 

For main course it was a dish that is becoming less fashionable these days that caught my eye. Instead of opting for the bog standard steak, there was the Fillet of Scotch beef with Roquefort, walnut and parsley pesto served with frites (£19.95). A slightly ambitious bundle of tastes? Never! If a chef has the talent and the inclination, why put the barriers up. The dish did not overpower with the strong flavours. It was nicely understated, and the meat was Scottish fare at its best. The Barnsley lamb chop, gratin dauphinois, garlic and thyme jus (£14.95) contained a fulsome portion of lamb, and again, the flavours hit the mark without being too overpowering.

The desserts provided a filling conclusion to a fine evening. The Apricot and almond tart with amaretto mascarpone (£5.50) was sublime. A real old-fashioned tasty cake that sweet-toothed diners search a lifetime for. The Plate of Cheese (£6.50) came with my old mate the ‘Spicy plum chutney’ - a reunion made in heaven. Early signs look good Petit Gourmand. You know you are curious, so what’s stopping you.

 

For full review please click here

 

---

 

The Courier 2008– ‘Dining Out: Petit Gourmand, Warwick Road, Kenilworth’

 

Petit Gourmand, formerly Simply Simpsons, has slotted very nicely into the fine dining category we've come to expect from that location on Warwick Road.

The contemporary restaurant has been transformed and makes a subtle statement with its bold coloured fabrics, softer lighting and some new banquette and booth seating.

 

Col decided to order the tuna carpaccio, sauce vierge with tomato and tarragon (£6.50) and I went for the Provencal tart with goat's cheese, finished with pistou (£5.95). The tuna was polished off so was a definite hit and my tart was light and tasty, not too heavy like some pastry starters can be.

 

The main course arrived swiftly. I chose the halloumi and sweet peppers dish (£11.95) and Col went for the fillet of Scotch beef with Roquefort, walnut and parsley pesto served with frites (£19.95).

 

My dish was presented well and the quantity was just right, not overwhelming at all, and Col will certainly be going back for that dish again on our next visit. To finish, I did try to resist, but the hot chocolate moelleux with crème chantilly (£5.50) had my name on it and was divine.

 

The restaurant has certainly been transformed and by 8pm it was buzzing. Head chef Iain Miller who has been working at Simply Simpsons, and the Michelin starred Simpsons for some eight years before that, heads up the kitchen at Petit Gourmand and made sure our meal was perfect

For full review please click here